Mercurial. What a great word. And the quality and personality of Dalrymple’s Pinot is best described as mercurial too. In some vintages, it has been surprisingly hulking. In other years, surprisingly thin. But there has been a steadying of the ship in recent vintages, and this Dalrymple Pinot Noir 2020 is the best release I can remember.

Limpid, mushroom soup meets raspberry, with just enough meaty undergrowth to go with that direct fruit. It’s a real mid-palate wine this, becoming more savoury to finish, with a dense core of red fruit that never feels too much. It’s maybe a little light in the tannin department, but that’s about it. Well-balanced, delicious and so moreish. Winner.

Dalrymple Pinot Noir 2020. Best drinking: great now and for the next few years. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13%, $38. Dalrymple website. Would I buy it? Sure would.