One of the more challenging releases, this Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache 2019 is a fascinating, layered wine, if not as loveable as the current release High Sands.

From the 2ha Block 30, planted in 1946. Destemmed, crushed and tipped into 675l ceramic eggs and spends 101 days on skins. Matured for a further 8 months on skins post-press. Numbers: pH 3.37 TA 6.5g/L.

There’s a waft of VA to announce things, then a nose and palate that is so lucid. Raspberry and red texta, there is a glycerol roundness through the palate, but the tannins are sandpapery and firm. I get a little distracted by the volatility and a slight soapiness, but the vibrancy of the fruit is excellent. The tannins are going to be divisive too – they’re pronounced and grainy – though that just adds layers. Quality Grenache, although I preferred last year’s release more (and the Hickinbotham too).

Yangarra Ovitelli Grenache 2019. Best drinking: It’s going to live. But I would drink it within the next five to eight years. 18/20, 93/100. 14%, $60. Yangarra website. Would I buy it? I’d take the Hickinbotham instead.