No smoke here! Another Hunter white (following this very good Shiraz) from 2020 with no taint, this Hungerford Hill Dalwood Vineyard Chardonnay 2020 is easy going.

Taut, lemon citrus style that has ripe fruit and kisses of oak and milk bottles. It’s a pretty simple beast though – broad peachy thing. The intention is for freshness and energy but it comes across as a bit simple. Enjoyable, in that rounded, warm-site Hunter style, but it’s a pretty ill-defined beast.

Hungerford Hill Dalwood Vineyard Chardonnay 2020. Best drinking: over the next few years. 17/20, 90/100. 13%, $40. Hungerford Hill website. Would I buy it? A glass.