New labels, and this latest crop of wines from Tim Smith have been uniformly excellent. Just make the Halliday scores look even more ridiculous (although Tim is not alone).

Anyway, this Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Viognier 2021 is a winner.

That’s all you need to know really. Oh and that the key to the appeal here is the Goldilocks balance, that delivers both apricot and peach fleshy fruit, with just enough acidity to stop this falling into flab.

You nailed the picking window, Tim!

There is a bit of tinned fruit juiciness here, but it’s not unpleasant, just varietal. You could put most of Australia’s genuinely tasty Viognier in one wine-barrel-turned-into-a-flowerpot, and this would be one of the first wines I’d pick.

Tim Smith Wines Eden Valley Viognier 2021. Best drinking: now. Don’t wait. 18.5/20, 94/100. $28. Tim Smith Wines website. Would I buy it? Yes.