More McLaren Vale than Cab Franc, but who cares when it’s an enjoyable drink?

Then again, everything Hickinbotham is unwaveringly great, and this is no exception. From a 0.9ha vineyard planted in 2013. Cold soak, wild ferment, 15 days on skins, basket pressed. Includes 7% Malbec and 2% Merlot. Yield 6t/ha. Numbers: pH 3.53 TA 6.2g/L.

Deep, dark and molten, it’s a black wine of considerable sexy oak and power. Seduction, weight, silken tannins. Right bank Bordeaux, but with a McLaren Vale mid palate. Lots of oak but not unbalanced. The flavour is abundant for such moderate alcohol. High class.

Best drinking: good now, better in a few years, and fine drinking for at least fifteen more. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $75. Hickinbotham Vineyard website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle.