There’s been some subtle variations in style for Tahbilk’s iconic white in recent years (tight and herbal, rounder and fruity) yet this Tahbilk Marsanne 2021 feels classical.

It’s svelte and built for the long term, with grapefruit acidity and just a little honeysuckle fruit, and late pear juice. It’s a wine of taut lines and yet it doesn’t feel hard – the comparison to ripe year Hunter Semillon is more apparent than ever. Yet as a young wine you’re scratching for much flavour.

How patient are you? Best drinking: come back in four years, then drink over twenty. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $20.30. Tahbilk website. Would I buy it? One for the cellar, sure.