Chunky wine is this Vinedresser Cabernet. Hearty McLaren Vale Cabernet with thick cut tannins, dark berry fruit, firm flavours, tough edges. It’s not exactly subtle, and the tannins are bristling, but gee it packs in some Vale Cabernet style. Not hard to appreciate this.

Chapel Hill The Vinedresser Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. Best drinking: now and for plenty of years yet. 17.5/20, 91/100. 14.5%, $26. Chapel Hill website. Would I buy it? A glass.