I’ve enjoyed so much of Sam Coverdale’s recent releases under the Even Keen/Polperro labels. Aside from the overly broad Field Blend, there have been no misses and many gold medals. High fives all round. You know how I was banging on about the challenges of the 2020 vintage in southern Victoria? Yeah well this Polperro Chardonnay 2020 tells me to shove my shitty harvest generalisations where generalisations belong (ie the bin).

Handpicked over three batches, crushed, transferred to barrel with full solids, fermented wild, goes through full malo, the wine kept on lees for 12 months with a little sulphur in spring the only addition, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. As ever with the Polperro wines, texture is king. Kitchen sink wines for flavour, and I’m ok with it. This is a Chardonnay of some contrasts too – Tight and nutty, with a dose of solidsy funk this looks compelling in its Burgundian shape, yet the palate is quieter, less round and lighter this year, which just makes it even fresher. There is just a little phenolics on the finish, a brashness that doesn’t quite sit with the quiet style, although the contrast ultimately delivers complexity.

Such lovely grapefruit etched finesse here. Such an enjoyable drink. It feels utterly handmade and yet precise too. Clever.

Best drinking: good now, but no hurry. 18.5/20, 94/100. 12.1%, $50. Polperro website. Would I buy it? Yes.