Notch this up as another standout from Tim. The only problem? There are hatfuls of this Tim Smith Wines Mataro 2021 to go around.

The format remains the same – old vines (70-140 years old) and matured in larger, old oak.

It’s too young by half, but don’t let that derail things. Dark black jube fruit, a real sense of dark savoury purple old vine Mataro glory, with no oak to get in the way. It’s mesmerising in its depth, and importantly never feels too heavy – just well balanced. High-quality Barossan red.

Tim Smith Wines Mataro 2021. Best drinking: wait until the end of the year methinks. Then drink whenever for the next decade or so. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14.5%, $42. Tim Smith Wines website. Would I buy it? Yes.