2020 was a tricky vintage for the Hills (fire, uneven flowering, the lot). You can see it in this lean and unready Longview Macclesfield Chardonnay 2020.

Part of the excellent Macclesfield range from this dynamic Adelaide Hills producer, this is nutty, waxy and mealy with a soft funk on the nose carrying through the palate. It’s pretty light and lean beside the sulphide character with a raw edge. It’s going to get there, as I think the architecture is pretty sound. But a bit arms and legs now. Plus sign is an important nod to the potential.

Best drinking: later. Next year. 17/20, 90/100+. 12.5%, $45. Longview website. Would I buy it? A glass.