You remember when I pumped up the little brother wine to this new Tapanappa Tiers 1.5m Chardonnay 2021? This is a significant step up. Different though.

Drawn from the close-planted block across the path from the original Tiers 1979 plantings (tangent – there’s a photo of a young Brian Croser looking purposeful in his short sleeves among the those young vines here), this is top shelf juice.

Interestingly it’s quite a bit leaner and less ripe than the Piccadilly Chardonnay, but in a good way. Just spot on.

White flowers, a smell of vanilla and clay, apple juice, white peach, vanilla bean. It feels very restrained without ever feeling underdone. It’s so lean and yet it’s anything but raw. There’s this finessed, very fine nectarine cream thing that is pure class.

An exercise in just-rightness. Yes yes.

Tapanappa Tiers 1.5m Chardonnay 2021. Best drinking: I like this style with a bit more bottle age. 2-3 years will make it truly great. But hey, no harm in diving in now. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.4%, $59. Would I buy it? Shit yes.