The tip-top top dog for De Bortoli, and even comes in an old-school claret bottle. Reach for the stars! This De Bortoli Melba Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2018 tastes like classic Yarra claret too.

Sourced from the oldest vines on the Dixons Creek property and spends 14 months in oak. A lovely regal Yarra Cab it is too. The oak is a bit forward for now, but structurally it’s excellent. Just a little dried fruit whispers on the nose, but the palate feels well contained, driven by tannins and unquestioned quality. That price? Jousting sticks. If it was half the cost I’d be more enthusiastic. But lets ignore that – I like it. this is a nice, mid-weight Yarra red of gold-medal quality.

Best drinking: now, or in a decade. You choose. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $160. De Bortoli website. Would I buy it? I’ll drink it, but not spend the dollars.