Now that Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends have lost their commercial lustre here in Australia, we’ve also seen less of the serious Bordeaux blanc-style blends as well. This Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2021 is straight Wrattonbully Sauv, but it takes cues from Bordeaux not the Loire (or, indeed Marlborough).

The only challenge, as ever, with this wine, is that it needs years to look its best. Handpicked fruit, fermented and matured in old French oak for eight months before bottling in January 2022. Serious Sauv it is too. All waxy lemon barley, with that ‘grey’ nose of oak-aged Semillon overlaid with citrus highlights. Very much about texture and structure, with the barest hints of Sauv varietal herbaceous passionfruit. It’s classy though – drying, finely flavoured, super tight, light and lemony. Interest here, even if it’s not a straightforward/easy wine.

Best drinking: next year, for a start. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.8%, $50. Terre à Terre website. Would I buy it? A glass now, more later.