Oakridge’s superstar Chardonnay and top-flight Pinot Noir wines tend to rob the limelight from the Cabernet, but on its day the Cabernet can be just as sexy time. I think Oakridge Original Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is just a smidgen drying to hit the highest notes, but there is a large spoonful of Yarra classicness here that is only going to get better with a few more years in bottle.

Sourced from the original vineyard at Seville. Classic Cab handling too – a good four weeks on skins and 15 months in barrel. Still purple-edged and every bit the cool and composed 13% alcohol red, with underplayed cassis and pencil shaving at first, then a bit more fruit flourishes. The fruit feels riper than some vintages, the mid-weight palate is typically composed, if a little diffuse this year too, with that mark of the warm 19 vintage evident.

As ever, this is still a satisfying Yarra red that I would happily drink.

Best drinking: now and for at least fifteen years, likely more. 18/20, 93/100. 13%, $74. Oakridge website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle over dinner.