A new name to me, and I was sent a few vintages of this Centare Vineyard Old Block Cabernet Sauvignon, clearly to get a nice overview of what the Yarra Valley site can do (and this is the best of ’em). Sourced from the ‘Old Block’, which is still only 24 years old. They didn’t call 24yr old vines ‘old’ in my day*shakes fist at clouds.

Plenty of chocolatey oak and cedar on the nose – grand intentions. It’s only a ruby red thing, though, and not big. Definitely varietal too – blackcurrant and cedar, the oak giving a bit of sweetness, all capped off with pretty classic tannins if a bit oak smudged. After a bit of time in the glass it opens up more, a nod to the future ahead.

Ultimately, this Centare isn’t quite a cool and modest Yarra claret, but certainly has some nice lines to keep you interested plus a long, promising future ahead.

Best drinking: later. Give it 3-5 years for a revisit, and then drink over a solid decade more. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $65. Centare website. Would I buy it? A glass or two.