As you might have guessed, Soumah made two single-vineyard Pinot Noir wines in 2021, with this Hexham Vineyard release from the Gruyere parish. This is a lighter, less grunty wine than the Ngumby, but no lesser in quality. I like them both and maybe lean towards this wine as my pick.

Cherries and glacé red fruit with a slice of vanilla and a little herbs. Lovely spice and red fruit balance – it has the trademark round red fruit Yarra flavour but with a sense of lightness too. Nice.

Best drinking: nowish. 18/20, 93/100. 13.5%, $40. Soumah website. Would I buy it? Yes.