I loved Alex Head’s top dog Ancestor Vine Grenache a month ago, and this isn’t far behind (for a smidgen of the price).

From 35-160yr old Barossan vines. Foot trod, all large oak, gentle going. There’s a sense of bright, cherry pie juiciness here, tempered with some meaty ‘I’ve been to Chateauneuf-du-Pape’ layers, but still very much about whole berry fruit, and topped up with some fine sandpaper Grenache tannins.

Instantly drinkable and quite juicy modern Barossan Grenache with enough complexity to bring you back. What’s not to like?

Best drinking: good now and for the next five to eight years for a start. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $35. Head Wines website. Would I buy it? Definitely