LuLu, or maybe it’s Lu Lu Barossa Shiraz. I’ve seen it with both. Choose your adventure.

Anyway, from a ‘cooler’ Barossa Valley site (which feels like a bit of a misnomer for the Valley. Eden Valley? Maybe) and spends 15 months in older oak. I certainly don’t see the coolness – it’s dense and compact and a bit toasted in that drying 2020 vintage mode. No shortage of density – a Shiraz you can chew, with dried plum fruit, surprisingly grippy tannins and warmth. It’s a bit firm and extracted, but an awful lot of dark, hearty Barossan density for the dollars. I can appreciate so much of this style, even if it’s not my bag.

Best drinking: now and for at least five years, likely longer. It’s chunky. 17/20, 90/100. 14%, $28. Hewitson website. Would I buy it? Just a glass.