Not my favourite Pewsey Vale Contours, but I think that is purely a stage in life – this Pewsey Vale Museum Release The Contours Riesling 2012 will probably climb to gold medal status in time.

Deliberately released as a ten-year-old, and the colour still looks youthful. Another Eden Valley magic trick! Yet it smells reasonably advanced – mothballs and lanolin with just a little TDN. There’s a bit of both youth and development on the palate, with wet rocks over grapefruit and a layer of toast, plus mandarin and pithy lemon fruit. Not short of complexity, eh! But then it tightens up on the finish to be very strict and drying.

The length here is superstar, but the feel is a bit jumbled, and it’s hardly smashable as a result. Come back later for the best bits.

Best drinking: later. Probably wait another 2-3 years. Zero chance of it falling over before then. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $?. Pewsey Vale website. Would I buy it? Can I have a bottle and report back later? Aged Pewsey is very much my bag (and I loved the 2010).