While Derek Fitzgerald’s Paisley reds are typically rich and luscious, this Paisley Cashmere Riesling 2022 is down-the-line classic Eden Valley stuff in a juicy, yet taut mode. Talc and a Gewurz-like musky sprig on the nose, before a palate of lime concentrate and stony acidity. It feels crisp and also expressive – expansive on the finish with an orange juice ripe fruit edge. Generous, yet taut, with life and energy. Good stuff.

Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $30. Paisley Wines website. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses at least.