The Terre à Terre reds are never short of impact, and this Terre à Terre Crayères Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2020 has power for days.

A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Shiraz from the close-planted, back-achingly stumpy Crayères Vineyard in Wrattonbully. Xavier has toned down the oak on these recent releases, and it has only enhanced the wines – this spends 12 months in an older barrel. Luscious and rather plush purple fruited thing, with cedary typically ripe fruits. It flirts with overripeness, but this vintage feels less oaky, more moderate, and stunning in its tannic power. Carries this concentrated licoricey thing with aplomb, and the expanse of chunky tannins just drives it on and on. So powerful.

A big boy wine, and a good one at that.

Best drinking: from now, although come back in 5-10yrs and you’ll probably be even happier. 18.5/20, 94/100. 14%, $50. Terre à Terre website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle for the cellar.