What were you doing at 12 years old?
Besides listening to lots of Pearl Jam and Nirvana and watching cricket, I probably wasn’t achieving much. But Sebastian Atkins-Davis is already four vintages into his winemaking career AND has just held his first new release launch dinner.
Sure, Sebastian does have some help – his parents are Brad & Matthew from Steels Gate Wines in the Yarra Valley – but to be clear, Sebastian is calling the shots, as his father (Brad) explains:
‘Matthew and I assist Sebastian, but he is the one making all the core decisions, plunging, testing, pressing and picking grapes. With the assistance of his uncle, he has designed his own branding and label and is now starting to play around with his own socials (AtkinsDavisVintners).’
‘This all came about as vintage is a very busy time for us as a family, and when Matthew was writing on the barrels, Sebastian asked which one can he have… we think it was his way of being with us more, but (he) has really enjoyed the process and has made a barrel every year since’…
What’s even more interesting is how seriously smart the Atkins-Davis Single Barrel Home Block Chardonnay 2021 looks as well. I really enjoyed this! I can see plenty of Steels Gate DNA in the style, with that finesse and delicacy that is the estate mode, and yet it feels different – some grandiosity. That may be because Sebastian picked a very good barrel (clever), but no escaping that this is quite delicious wine. Think lines of richness and custard powder winemaking influence over a tight backbone of citrusy flavour. It plays that modern Yarra Chardonnay dance, where it threatens to be lean and acid shaped, yet there are just expanses of unexpected butterscotch and vanilla icecream flavour that 12.5% alcohol Chardonnay should have. Well done. 18.5/20, 94/100 if we’re scoring (it’s $60 a bottle from Steels Gate too).
While Sebastian’s Atkins-Davis Single Barrel Melba Block Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2020 isn’t quite as startling as the Chardonnay – there’s a bit of the 2020 vintage mixed ripeness in there – this co-fermented blend of Yarra Cab & Shiraz from a 40-year-old vineyard in Dixons Creek has charm. A bit of Yarra claret to the style – hello cedar, dark berries, meaty chocolate – and mid weight berry juiciness through the middle and bitter tannins to finish. Not an obvious wine, but grows on you, as good Yarra Cab blends should do. 17.7/20, 92/100.
Finally, the Atkins-Davis Single Barrel Melba Block Merlot 2019 (nicknamed ‘Smerlot’) was a bit light and lean for me, and it feels condescending to give it an encouragement award, but that’s the only one of the three that looks less sure of itself.
Man, I wish I was kicking big goals with my own impressive wines at 12 – it’s unquestionably inspiring. Though, it’s very weird that Sebastian can’t even walk into a bottleshop and buy one of his own wines for another six years…
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