One of my first wine loves was a Clare Valley red.

It was a mid-90s Leasingham Classic Clare Shiraz, and I was excited. It felt, well, different. Different to the more obvious reds I had been trying. Better. More mid-weight, more tannic, more serious. To my 19yo old palate, it seemed like what dry, full-bodied red wine should taste like. The only thing I wanted more was Wynns John Riddoch, which back then (circa 2000) was a magical creature to lust over.

Twenty-three years later and there still lies a special place in my heart for a gruff Clare red. They don’t have to be gruff either – the modern Wendouree Cab Malbec form is still firm, for example, but the tannins are more finessed than ever. And it’s delicious.

There is a certain line that runs through Clare reds that always feels less obvious, more salt-of-the-earth. The reds are so often structure-forward (rather than fruit), yet still generous in heart and character – all of which fits with my sensibilities.

I’m digressing perhaps, but welcome to my thought chain when I first cracked this Kirrihill Partner Series Cabernet Sauvignon 2019.

Sporting a bunch of trophies and gold medals, this is every bit the deep and hearty Clare red of yore, too. A richly layered, oak fortified (20 months in wood, though not oaky) red of hearty breadth. Mint, blackberry, with tannins that are drying but not desiccated – chunky, rather than fine tannins. Heaps of flavour for $30 is the message here! It’s a bit of a brute and certainly ripe, but that’s the trick here. Substantial wine that drives with that dark hearty impact that I like for more than nostalgia reasons. It’s a firm yes wine for me, even if it’s a bit foresquare for a daily drink.

Best drinking: now and for another decade easy. 18/20, 93/100. 14.5%, $30. Kirrihill website. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle with something meaty.