There’s a certain lightness to the Soumah Yarra Valley Pinot range that sometimes I love and other times, it just makes the wines seems a bit simple. This Soumah Single Vineyard Hexham Pinot Noir 2022 falls somewhere in between those marks. Ruby-coloured, it’s all glacé raspberry fruit in a gentle, plump, and even slightly syrupy style with a bit of spiced figginess. Affability is very high, and that fruit is instantly attractive (hence the decent silver medal score), but I wonder if this is missing a fifth gear.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $45. Soumah website. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.