The price has gone up a smidgen on the Tokar Estate single vineyard wines in recent years (from $50 for the 2019 release and now $60 for the 2022) but the quality is still right up there. This Tokar Estate Coldstream Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 release strikes a nice balance between white peach ripe fruit with a lovely golden bready funk and richness, too, even if it gets a bit too stony and green in its acidity. Love the carefully judged golden richness through the middle, though, and you get the feeling it’s all going to come together in another year or so. Another masterful Yarra Chardonnay.

Best drinking: give it 18 months, and then drink over the next five years after that. 18/20, 93/100+. 13%, $60. Tokar estate website. Would I buy it? Let’s share a bottle (next year).