A widely distributed, ‘I can’t believe it’s not Coonawarra’ Cabernet Merlot for under $20. Yeah, this Smith & Hooper Cabernet Merlot 2021 has lots going for it. All Wrattonbully fruit, there’s a lift of cedary eucalypt and dark berry signature on the nose that won’t keep you guessing. The mid-weight palate deals in more mint and then clearly defined tannins. It’s not a big wine, and more about structure than big fruit, but it does feel classic and well-formed for very few dollars (I’ve seen it for as low as $17).

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: Now to ten years.
• Score (out of 20): 17.5
• Score (out of 100): 91
• Alcohol %: 13.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 21
• Winery website: https://www.smithswinestore.com.au/smith-and-hooper/
• Would I buy it?: Sure would