When it’s on song, Yarra Valley Shiraz is a near-perfect cool climate Syrah/Shiraz. You get the purple fruit volume but also a perfume and prettiness too. Adelaide Hills does it, too (and arguably more consistently). Getting the balance right between ‘another dry red’ and ‘Pinot Noir with a Shiraz label’ is tricky in the Yarra.

This Tokar Estate Coldstream Vineyard Shiraz 2021 is an appealing example of ‘just right’. Sourced from a four-acre block in Coldstream, you can see the handiwork of winemaker Martin Siebert here; with whole bunch spice, cured meats and a palate of rich blue fruits, the palate fizzes along on its vibrant form and then extra aromas of leather, rosemary and perfumed fruits for interest. Just when you think it will be a bit too light, there is a cut of meaty grunt to finish.

Lovely balance of mid-weight glossy flavour here.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: Now and for a decade (but just start now)
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 14
• RRP (in $AUD): 60
• Winery website: https://www.tokarestate.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: Sure would