Outwardly, Marlborough seems like anything but a wine region with a thriving lo-fi wine movement. Led by a Savalanche of Sauvignon Blanc made in a very conventional fashion (clean, simple, fruity), it can seem like a production region (like the Riverland in SA) rather than a premium wine hub.

But that ignores the other side of Marlborough, where (typically smaller) producers take the region styles and tip them upside-down. Deep Down fits that description, with Clive Dougall and Peter Lorimer delivering organic, wilder expressions that can be genuinely exciting (if served with a bit of variability).

In 2022, which was a vintage that went through endless wet and cold weather challenges, these wines aren’t easy but pack an unquestioned charisma, which is just a lot more interesting in the long run.

Let’s have a squizz.

Deep Down Chardonnay 2022

Organic, wild-fermented Marlborough Chardonnay from The Wrekin Vineyard. No additions bar a little sulphur at bottling. What a ride! Hay, lemon, solidsy funk, porridge. The lemon custard mealy palate just builds and builds too – it crescendos into this wonderful oatmeal palate that is so mouthfilling and tick, thickset but not horrid, fully worked lemon porridge style. There is so much to unpack here – a real mouthful of a Chardonnay without being too wild (just overt). Yes!

Best drinking: nowish. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $65. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.

Deep Down Sauvignon Blanc 2022

Lo-fi Marlborough Sauv. Wild fermented in tank and old barrels, This doesn’t look or smell like another Savvy B, with a little gold in colour and a nose of hay, oatmeal, rice custard – it could almost be a Gris. Limey, leesy, stonefruit cream pie palate is different, too, but it’s a lovely, gentle sort of wine through the middle before that 2022 vintage Marlborough acid punch. I quite enjoy this – it’s outside the paradigm and just a bit diffuse, but it has interesting textures.

Best drinking: now. 17.7/20, 92/100. 12.5%, $40. Would I buy it? A glass or two.

Deep Down Pinot Noir 2022

No additions here, just organic Pinot Noir grapes. Wears the tricky season on its organic sleeve. Tomato stems, a little charcuterie. The fruit isn’t quite there, which accentuates the acidity. Instead a gentle violetty and slightly meaty wine that lacks generosity. Has the style but not the ripeness.

Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 12.5%, $65. Would I buy it? A glass.