Review: Sons & Brothers Cabernet of Millthorpe 2013

And I’m back, if briefly.

The past few weeks have felt like an endless day as I wrap up a bunch of projects before a long-deserved Balinese reset. I’m tired, sore and forgetful, but I’ll be poolside in less than 48 hours, so life is ok.

Before any talk of umbrella drinks (there won’t be much wine drinking in Bali), an eclectic New South Wales red lobbed up on the bench over the weekend and offers up a shedload of intrigue (if you’ve got a few minutes to come down a rabbit hole with me).

Just opening this Sons & Brothers Cabernet of Millthorpe 2013 is different. There’s a light plastic capsule over the top of a crown seal, which is a nod to the intention of this wine to live forever. It might do it too.

The story starts with a tiny 2-hectare plot at Millthorpe (which counts as Orange GI) at 940m that has been farmed by Christopher & Kathryn Bourke since 1981. Predominantly bush vines, the vineyard is mainly planted to Cabernet Sauvignon, but Savagnin and a little Tempranillo, too, just because. The Sons & Brothers Cabernet of Millthorpe then is a co-fermented field blend of the whole block.

Hello, distinctive personality.

From Bloodwood’s Merlot Noir to the Canobolas Smith Alchemy to Brangayne’s Tristan, Orange has a thing for surprising Bordeaux variety-based reds (even if they don’t always work), so we’re on stable (if esoteric) footing here. The Bourkes don’t see their wine as Bordeaux-like, though, believing their climate and soil profile as closer to Beaujolais, making something ‘reminiscent of a bigger, rich Pinot Noir or a serious Gamay’ that shows its best at 10-20 years of age.

I don’t share the Pinot/Gamay view based on this bottle, though. It’s too leafy and Cabernet-y for that. Loire Cab Franc or a high-altitude Chilean Carmenere/Cab? Now, we’re getting closer.

Of course, bottle age muddles that vibe a bit, too, and this 2013 release is the current vintage (which is also wild) but helps amp up the charisma even more…

You wouldn’t pick the age on the colour or nose, though – it’s a coppery dark ruby with some redness. It smells leafy, in a cool climate Cabernet way, with a little green vegetal herbs and mulchy highlights before a palate that has clear ripe red and black fruit in the mix. Again, like an aged Cab Franc! There’s a wonderful genteel feel to this blend, too – it’s a bit leathery, acidic, leafy, dusty and secondary, but the flavours feel unforced and timeless, in a Chesterfield and a clock that bongs loudly sort of mode. It’s claret-y in some ways, but with more fruit than some 13% lean Bordeaux red. With only 5-15% new oak used in the blend, you don’t see wood as a flavour, but there’s a caramel edge to remind you that a barrel was used at some point. The tannins are still there too, with a powdery late line that affirms things are in the right place, set for another ten years at least.

Ultimately, I won’t even pretend this is red wine for the people. It’s not fruity, smooth or even a little bit smashable. But it is charming, and I can see how a lamb shoulder/cloth-bound cheddar and a rainy June Saturday night would see this unusual New South Wales red as something welcomingly provocative.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now to whenever.
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13.8
• RRP (in $AUD): 50
• Winery website: https://www.sonsandbrothers.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: I'd go a few glasses after a cold day in the mountains