Pinot Gris is such a bastardised grape. So much flavourless junk, tending into flabby junk. But this Orange Pinot Gris is not junk. From Pete Logan’s numbered-bottle experimental series (which includes the tasty Marsanne) is not junk. Barrel fermented and pushing for texture, and even a little orange in the colour. Give me flavour! There’s orange blossoms, orange juice, some nectarine/apricot stonefruit, and gently creamy edges. It threatens to be too broad, but just enough cut and tang to cancel out the creamy orange flavours. Good going.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: nowish
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100): 92
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 45
• Winery website: https://www.loganwines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: worth a few glasses def.