It’s that time again. Time to inspire me to spend more money on drinks, even though the WineArk cabinet can’t be closed properly and the Amex is maxed out.
So, what wine, beer, and other refreshing liquids have you been buying and drinking this month?
The long-promised cellar clean-out happened this month, which meant sending off a wad of wines to Langtons (quite a bit of Mt Edelstone and older Barolo because the prices are insane given what I paid, and I have mixed feelings about the wines). Happily, this means I can now fill the newly created holes! There’s already some 2023 Domenica & Kumeu River Chardonnay on the way, and I’ll probably buy 2023 Hunter reds next. There is also a pressing need (NEED!) for more Champagne/fizz, and that’s never a cheap exercise.
What about you? What have you been buying?
Meanwhile, multiple fine bottles were emptied this month, with Mrs Ozwinereview’s bday a very worthy excuse to open the good stuff.
I really enjoyed the effortlessness of this Pierre Gimmonet Special Club Chouilly Grand Cru 2015, among other things. It is refined in a wonderful Blanc de Blanc mode. It may be a little on the lighter side, but I’d happily take the delicacy any day.

The Tyrrell’s HVD Semillon 2017 opened alongside was barely entering its drinking window. A strident Semillon star, with the power and green fruited intensity of a big year, with just a whisper of toast creeping in. Oh yes, you can see that it will be a superstar, and it was probably dumb to open it now (but I have minimal regrets; I have more).

Meanwhile, a proper current vintage Chardonnay face-off was next on the agenda and this was pretty confounding. An Australian Chardonnay that looked lean next to a classic Chablis? Twilight zone. I was whelmed by the Eastern Peake Chardonnay 2022 and found myself looking for another degree of ripeness. It’s a bony wine built up by winemaking artifice, with great acidity and fancy style but a missing middle.

By contrast, the Christophe et Fils Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu 2022 was a welcome return to Chablis town. Wet stones, white peach, freshness, ripe fruit and plenty of joy. Still, threatening to get a little stonefruity, but ultimately resolving into Chablis classicness. Australia 0 France 1.

Finally, the Jean-Baptiste Souillard Saint-Joseph 2021 belonged to a different decade. It was no more than 12.5% alcohol, and it screamed ‘I’m so Rhoney’ with this beautiful, lithe, but slightly early-picked Syrah flourish. Leaf litter, mulch, purple fruit, ham, and black pepper, all delivered in a just medium-bodied and cool thing that feels like how some of the old Hermitage wines of the 1980s might have looked. I liked it, without loving it, appreciating the cool lines and infinite cellarability.

What else? Well, a few passing tastes are worth mentioning here, too. The Suenen C + C Blanc d Blancs Extra Brut NV (2023 disgorgement) was the runaway highlight of a grand grower Champagne tasting that featured Larmander Bernier, Egly Ouriet, Laherte Freres, and a shedload more. I know little about this maker, but the profound beauty of this stunning BdB was unmistakable. It’s Champagne, in all its purity, but with Burgundian feels (without oxidative wildness). I can feel my credit card balance draining more with every sip, luring me into buying some.

Closer to home, earlier this week I had a very quick run-through of the top By Farr bottlings with Nick Farr. The quantities are tiny, but the 2022s have epic written all over them. The By Farr GC Chardonnay 2022 was less exciting for me as it looked wrapped up too tight in an oak and itself. Come back later! Compare that to the open flourish of the superb By Farr RP Pinot Noir 2022 or the stem and tannin framed power of the By Farr Tout Pres Pinot Noir 2022. Love By Farr? The 2022s are going to win you over easily.
On Tuesday, there was also a lineup of 2022 Dr Loosen Grosses Gewächs Riesling in there too. It’s easy to get blase about how everywhere the Dr Loosen wines can be, but the three Riesling releases I tried (Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Ürziger Würzgarten & Erdener Treppchen) were exceptionally intense expressions of grand German dry white. They’re not even that expensive, given the unmistakeable quality, either.
Finally, or something completely different, there was a brief look at two stunning whites from the Azores Wine Company. The vineyards here (on the Azores islands) sit at the very extreme end of viticulture, with tiny bush vines stuck into cracks in the volcanic rock. The basket-pruned Assyrtiko vines on Santorini are wild (and worth a visit), but this looks next level.
I absolutely loved the Azores Wine Company Verdelho O Original 2022 with its remarkable saline tang and unexpected crystalline beauty. Made from a clone of Verdelho that likes a sexy, distant cousin of the workhorse Verdelho we have in Australia, this Verdelho tasted more like the exceptional Assytriko of Santorini than anything else. Two enthusiastic thumbs up from me. The Arinto was not quite as provocative, but that punctuating, nervy volcanic energy runs through it too.

But enough about me and my obsession with vital white wines. What have you been drinking this October 2024?
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12 Comments
Really enjoyed the first bottle of the Torzi Matthews 2021 Frost Dodger Rieslings that I bought on your recommendation a couple of years ago.
Best wine drunk this October to date has been the 2019 Altera Terra Sanctus Syrah – exceptional texture and length.
Had an old favourite 2014 Golden Ball ‘la bas’ Chardonnay which reminded me that a trip to Beechworth was needed very soon.
Dom Torzi’s wines are such bargains.
I’ve been loving Bryan Martin’s Ravensworth Shiraz Viognier 2022. great fruit, balance & length and less than half the price of the “identical” Clonakilla.
And I’ve got enough to see how it develops over the next decade.
Also, Julian Castagna’s Allegro Syrah Rose – a wine of elegance and depth & so reminiscent of his earlier versions – just delightful.
I have some of their 2019 Shiraz Viognier in my cellar . Perhaps time to sample it and compare to the Altera Terra Sanctus. Certainly good wraps on Canberra Shiraz!
I bought some of that Ravensworth. It’s a v. nice wine with real Clonakilla vibes
Hi Andrew,
These are some of the more interesting wines drunk in the last couple of months:-
Leclerc Briant Reserve Brut
A. Margaine Le Brut Champagne
Joseph Perrier La Cote A Bras
Mercier Limited Release Chardonnay, 2022
Mac Forbes Yarra Junction Chardonnay 2022
Marco Lubiana Chardonnay, 2022
JL Chave Selection St.Joseph Blanc ‘Circa’, 2022
Dopff Grand Cru Schoenenbourg, 2016
Peter Lauer No 25 Ayler Riesling, 2020
Rieslingfreak No 12, 2023
Guigal Condrieu, 2022
Scorpo Eocene Pinot Noir, 2020
Dalrymple Pipers River Pinot Noir, 2022
Aphelion Wait Single Vineyard Grenache 2022
Shirax by Farr, 2021
Badia A Passignaano Chianti Classico, 2020
Amon Ra by Ben Glaetzer, 2016
Yalumba Octavius, 2017
Penfolds Bin 389, 2022
Cotes de Hentley, 2018
Quite a list. What looked good? How was the Mac Forbes?
The Mac Forbes was lovely. Easily the pick of the three chardonnays.
The Leclerc Briant was fun but crazy – just as you described recently. Wish I’d managed to get hold of another couple of the Cote a Bras when on half price.
The Dopff Grand Cru looked a bargain for less than $50, but wasn’t. The Condrieu was beautiful for a glass, but I didn’t need any more.
Been drinking more Mclaren grenache this year and the Aphelion was very likeable.
Of the shirazes, the Farr appealed ever more as the bottle disappeared. The Octavius was magnificent and overshadowed the Hentley Farm
Hi Andrew,
Im Enjoying 2023 WA Chardonnay. looks like a top vintage.
Castelli Estate Chardonnay
Leeuwin Prelude Chardonnay
both excellent..
Still to come:
Capel Vale Black Label Chardonnay & Fire Gully Chardonnay.
Bought: Aline Aligote, Piona Gavi range, Grace Koshu and Olek cru Barbaresco
Drinking highlights: Guigal La Turque ’13, Syrahmi Lalas, Chateau Musar ’16 and Cappellano Pie Franco ’19. Some real gems. Musar very approachable already, such great length and freshness too
I haven’t had a good Musar in ages, what a rare pleasure.
Definitely rarer. First time my friends got to try it themselves. Quirky blend but it works well imo, the length and complexity all there. Still need to try their flagship white one day, much rarer here.