Crittenden’s brilliant 2022 Cri de Couer Mornington Chardonnay + Pinot

I had to Google Cri de Couer, as my French is pretty rubbish (Italian is much better, but still cosi cosi), and Mirriam-Webster tells me it’s a ‘passionate outcry’ (and the label says a cry of the heart).

I’m passionately singing out about these new 2022 Crittenden Cri de Couer releases.

The Crittenden family have a pretty storied history on the Peninsula, with patriarch Gary planting vines way back in the early 80s when Cabernet was the regional hero (which feels like a bizarro world now). Nowadays, Crittenden is run by Rollo & Zoe Crittenden, who’ve rolled out into all sorts of interesting things (including some of the best Jura-styled oxidative whites in the country).

These ’22 Cri de Couer wines feel like a newly unlocked level of Mornington classic glory, though. There’s a little x-factor without losing the delicacy that marks the rest of the range (except the wild Sous Voile releases), translated into wines I want to drink.

Crittenden Cri de Couer Pinot Noir 2022

Extra good Mornington Pinot. Sourced from the now 40yo Home Vineyard, 45% whole bunches, and a very surprising 85% (according to the notes) new oak. Twiggy, a little menthol, but more fruit than minty, and indeed, it all leads to a lovely sappy raspberry palate cut with mulberry and then a little smoky stewy cherry. Lots going on. Lots swirling below the surface – a chocolate oak line, a bit of woodsmoke and some late, sappy, sappy tannin. Wonderful, complex, evocative. Bloody good Mornington Pinot.

Best drinking: open it now and watch it unfurl over dinner, or hold for a few years (but not too long). 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $95. Would I buy it? Oh yes.

Crittenden Cri de Coeur Chardonnay 2022

Also, estate fruit was wild fermented and matured in French barriques. 50% went through malo. Delicate and appley, this light-touch style has lovely delicate apple and lifts of apple cream with waves of whipped white butter and clever acidity. Saline and so fresh—really finessed without being too taut or lean. I hate the word minerally, but gee, this has it. The Pinot is arguably the better wine, but this is deliciously refined drink is what I’d finish first.

Best drinking: you could open it now, but the sweet spot is probably 2 years away. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $95. Would I buy it? Also yes.