I loved the Pinot, but this Chardonnay version of the Crittenden Kangerong feels a bit too firm. It’s a classy, slightly muted, lean Mornington Chardonnay crying out for more time. It’s all waxy, whipped butter and very light fruit, all delicacy and crysalline nectarine fruit and acidity plus. It’s attractively fresh, I just would love a little more on the flavour volume.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: later. Ideally two years before next opening.
• Score (out of 20): 17.7
• Score (out of 100):
• Alcohol %: 13
• RRP (in $AUD): 49
• Winery website: https://www.crittendenwines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: a glass for now