There’s a fine balance in the Pikes Riesling wines that really works, and it’s all about imperceptible sweetness. So often Clare (and Eden) Valley Riesling is ‘dry’ as physically possible – so, in winemaking terms, maybe a gram or so per litre of residual sweetness, max. But this Pikes The Merle Riesling 2024 has 3.4g/L. It’s not enough to give any perception of sweetness, per se, but it does stop the bone-chilling acidic hardness that I think can put people off (other people, mind you) young Riesling. This Merle is very young, but it’s a lovely, juicy and expressive sort of wine – the green fruit tends to melon and fleshy flavour. Excellent balance of green banana and lime concentrate density. It’s really quite open, powerful and inviting. It’s another Pikes winner.

THE VERDICT

• Best drinking: now or in two decades
• Score (out of 20): 18.5
• Score (out of 100): 94
• Alcohol %: 11.5
• RRP (in $AUD): 62
• Winery website: https://pikeswines.com.au/
• Would I buy it?: Sure would