The Silkman situation – the ‘other’ super white wine label of the Hunter Valley?

Despite making 260 (mostly Hunter Valley) wines a year, a former dux of the Len Evans Tutorial, and only recently crowned as the 2025 Halliday Winemaker of the Year, Liz Silkman has a surprisingly low profile.

Sure, you could argue that it’s a legacy of being a prominent contract winemaker rather than the head of a famous Hunter estate (like Tyrrell’s, Mount Pleasant, Brokenwood, et al). You could also argue that this is the burden of being a Hunter Valley winemaker in a country where NSW wine gets treated like a podium rounder behind SA, Vic & WA (or indeed Tassie).

Yet when you try the best wines that Liz (and husband Shaun, who is the COO of First Creek and Silkman) are making, the low profile makes little sense. Indeed, at the last Hunter Valley Wine Show, an astonishing seven trophies headed in a Silkman direction, yet I have to put my hand up to say that I’m part of the problem as I’m not mentioning these wines in conversation of the best of the Hunter Valley.

So, let’s try to address that now…

Late last year, Liz came to town with a whole swag of new and old releases to remind everyone that we’re not making enough noise about Silkman wines. She dragged what’s left of the Sydney wine media scene (which nowadays is broken/old/distracted by needing to make a wage outside of wine words) to the truly sublime Saint Peter in Paddington to set things straight.

I don’t want to dwell too much on the meal, actually, because this is a story about wines. But hot dog Saint Peter is an amazing experience. The strictly seafood-only artistry at this sublime fine diner is mind-boggling, especially with the ‘is this meat’ fishy head-bending textural masterpieces. My photos just don’t do justice.

Meanwhile, we should probably start the wine discussion with a little context. As I mentioned, Liz’s main gig is the Chief Winemaker of First Creek, which is the largest contract winemaking/bottling/storage operation in the Hunter Valley. As I touched on at this Chardonnay smorgasbord from last year, it’s sometimes hard to find a wide from the region that the Silkmans haven’t touched.

Silkman, the label, started as a side hustle. A premium project to highlight some special parcels of Hunter Valley Shiraz, Semillon and Chardonnay. That has evolved a bit now to have consistent releases and expand beyond the usual Hunter key grapes into Grüner (as you do) and Shiraz Pinot (the original Hunter blend).

The key fruit sources for the Silkman (and First Creek) wines include two revered old plots – the Murphy Vineyard (planted in the 1960s on Wilderness Road Lovedal), and the old McGuigan Blackberry Vineyard which lies between Tyrrell’s & De Iuliis. Both blocks are largely on the sandy loam soils that make the best Semillon in the region.

Indeed, Liz loves the sandy soil. She notes that ‘the acid numbers can be similar off the clay (the red clay soils which are most loved for Hunter reds)’ but is a big believer that ‘the best wines come off the sand’.

Acidity is an important discussion here – it really defines everything that carries a Silkman name. Sometimes, I see that as a tartness in reds (as you’ll see below), but it also means that these are wines of freshness and delicacy. It’s especially important for Chardonnay, where the rich but fresh wines, under both the First Creek & Silkman labels, are rightly regarded as the best in the region (Liz is affectionately known as the ‘Queen of Chardonnay’ and loves drinking the stuff).

Let’s take a look at some wines!

First Creek Single Vineyard Murphy Semillon 2023

‘Murphy brings a bigger fruit weight, and it holds more weight on its bones’, according to Liz. ‘I see a phenolic grip in the (Murphy Vineyard) wine)’. This is a rather classic style from a warmer year better known for reds and Chardonnay. There’s alittle bath salt florals, and it’s quite limey with a little lime leaf and a twist of green herbs. Very classical, but I can see the expression that Liz talks about. Just a little straw in this wine, a saline tang though. Clean but expressive, it’s a formative wine but with this fresh fruit slight edge. Interesting and definitely quality. 18/20, 93/100.

First Creek Single Vineyard Murphy Semillon 2017

‘I love the 23s and I love the 17s. The 17s have a huge amount of time in front of them’ said Liz.

Another nice wine here. The extra toast makes this great, even if the palate is a bit firm and grippy. There is just a little disconnect between the punchy nose and the firm palate, though. Can’t escape that power though. This is still a wine coming together, but with quite a weighty whack behind it. 17.7/20, 92/100+.

Silkman Reserve Semillon 2024

‘I feel a similar thing about the 24s. The Semillon have an elevated level of fruit power’ explains Liz. You can definitely see that weight in this very different Semillon. While the warmer, drier years (like 2024) can make some of the most iconic Hunter Semillon releases, Liz has a different take ‘in my opinion the best years in the Hunter (for Sem) are the rainy years because it takes picking decisions out of the occasion’.

‘For the Silkman Semillon I’m chasing a style’ she notes here, although the atypicalness makes that style less defineable. There’s a green apple melon flesh, with musk and prettines – it’s quite ripe and powerful. Melon! It’s plump and generous and already really quite drinkable, even if that translates into something that feels a bit less defined. Will be interesting to see where this goes’. 17.7/20, 92/100.

Silkman Blackberry Semillon 2023

This feels perfect. There is that more linear green acid style and yet it’s quite powerful too linear and classic. Pick of the line for me so far – it just feels right and classical. 18.5/20, 94/100.

Silkman Reserve Semillon 2017

Perfect. In a great place, a little buttered toast, again a linear wine, very linear and the acid is perfectly green. Man the toast lime balance is super. A soaring star and may get even better. I want some. 18.7/20, 95/100.

First Creek Limited Release Vermentino 2024

Varietal, but it’s a bit too much Hunter and less Vermentino. It has plenty of tangy green pear fruit, and it drives on through into chalky acidity. It’s so Hunter though, maybe a bit too primary and juicy to be great. 17.5/20, 91/100.

First Creek Limited Release Fiano 2024

Has some barrel ferment and lees work. Liz says that she learnt from Alex Sheerah that they leaf pluck to get the flavour in Fiano, which Liz still does. Lots of work and learnings for a grape that is still new for the Hunter.

I don’t quite love this, but can appreciate the intent. it’s phenolic and backward, just a bit muted save for an understated citrus tang. Pre-pubescent – it’s simmering away, with length and drive, but not drinkability (yet). 17/20, 90/100+

Silkman Grüner Veltliner 2023

Hunter Valley Grüner! Comes from a vineyard off Hermitage Road. While Liz likes that Grüner holds its natural acid, mentioning that ‘it sits out getting ripe and keeps its acid’ in the winery, it’s about keeping this varietal ‘we don’t do any skin contact. We try to keep the Grüner flavours’.

Anything but obvious. A little white pepper and clearly varietal, with breezy celery and white fruit. If just needs a bit more intensity. Fresh and pleasant and lively though. 17.5/20, 91/100.

First Creek Single Vineyard Will’s Hill Chardonnay 2022

This comes from a vineyard near the Cessnock airport. Plenty going on here too ‘I don’t chase sulphide. We always get it but I don’t chase it. The Will’s Hill fruit seems to get an extra level’. Liz does not lees stir because ‘I don’t want our wines to be any bigger. I’m trying to keep these wines as restrained as can be’

Across the board, these wines see 25-40% new oak. ‘I believe in the value of old white oak’.

This is excellent Chardonnay. Lots of reductive characters, but you’d not call this hollow. Has some lovely white peach fruit under it. Such wonderous layers – You’ve got to appreciate the wooly sulphide note but what presence! A wow wine. 18.7/20, 95/100.

First Creek Single Vineyard Wondalma Chardonnay 2022

We’re diverging here, as this is from Tumbarumba fruit fruit. ‘I don’t do malo, but I think this has a bit’ mentions Liz. Cool and very coiled, I see the oak as just a bit dominant and it gives this slightly gluey element to it. It’s pre-pubescent again, and there is this slight cinnamon weirdness to it. Not short, but not quite fully composed for big scores either. 17.5/20, 91/100+.

Silkman Reserve Chardonnay 2023

You can really see the DNA of this alongside the 2023 Semillon from earlier – all citrus-driven acidic intensity. Semillon-like Hunter Chardonnay. Cool and coiffed. Soda water and with just a little sweaty lemon and fine butter. This is a really fine Hunter Chardonnay that feels a bit formative for the moment. 18/20, 93/100.

Silkman SILK Chardonnay 2023

This is a bit of a behind-the-counter winee that Liz has been making for a while without a proper commercial release. It’s a 1200L barrel selection blend of two puncheons and a hogshead. According to Liz this is ‘the most ‘pure Hunter Valley Chardonnay I can make.

Very fine, like a more worked version of the Reserve but also extra swagger. It’s Burgundian. If you like, with very stylish oak and class, even if its still a baby. Very classy, even if the Wills Hill is a more interesting wine. 18.5/20, 94/100.

Silkman SILK Chardonnay 2017

It’s still so young! Imagine the 2023 but with just an extra bit of golden yellow flavour. Sexy oak, finesse, high-quality, crisp and refiend Hunter Chardonnay only just hitting its prime. 18.5/20, 94/100.

First Creek Limited Release Sangiovese 2023

More divergence as this comes from Hilltops grapes. Leathery berries, an acid-shaped wine, bright red fruit with a little confection. Plump and fun if less serious. 17/20, 90/100.

First Creek Winemaker’s Reserve Shiraz 2022

From the De Bortoli Vineyard. A bold wine for the vintage, a purple red with a rich mid palate and an oak presence. It has a purple berry flavour with just a little dust and blackness. It really feels deep and wide. Impressive weight here. 18/20, 93/100.

Silkman Wines Shiraz Pinot Noir 2022

Molten red fruit, a little dark cooked plum, then it’s pretty redcurrant. It is medium-bodied, has a little leathery Hunter dustiness, and is savoury rather than joyous with a little blackberry spirit. Just a bit leathery, which contrasts to the confected fruit whisper. 17.7/20, 92/100.

Silkman Wines Reserve Shiraz 2022

Another savoury style. Medium-bodied, shaped by acidity, black olive, contrasts with some red cherry, and then it gets a bit tart. It’s certainly stylish, even if I see the tang sticking out a little. 17.7/20, 92/100.

THE VERDICT

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