Gundog’s lavish Rare Game Shiraz 2023 + plenty more Gundog variety

Matt Burton from Gundog Estate does love to tinker.

Whether that’s new wines, new takes on old wines, or the constantly evolving Indomitus lineup, there is always something new happening at Gundog. Semillon-infused gin! Beer for dogs! It’s fun, really, and especially because you get some genuinely fascinating wines (like the excellent M Burton Shiraz).

Also, every new release comes with a full explanation about intent, which appeals to my wine nerd heart, complete with all the winemaking notes that I love. Give me your pH and TA, wine world!

Speaking of intent, there’s been a conscious move to evolve the Gundog Estate range to have a broader NSW regional focus. Sure, the Hunter Valley remains the HQ for the Gundog world, but there’s a Canberran operation now too (and more wines from the ‘berra than ever), plus ever more Hilltops and even Yarra releases too.

What about Orange, Matt? Come on? Have a go! Tumbarumba Chardonnay too?

Interestingly, many releases in this lineup all seem to share a mad knack of delivering flavour volume at relatively modest alcohol, which is applaudable. That said, I think some of the more experimental wines tend to lose character and drinkability (trying too hard) when they would probably be more satisfying with less winery work.

Let’s take a look at some wines!

Gundog Estate Rare Game Shiraz 2023

This is a standout red, even if it’s too youthful. It’s Hunter Valley Shiraz, drawn from Tinkler’s 48 Block and the Will’s Hill vineyard and spends 16 months in barrel. Bright, joyously ripe, this feels like top-flight modern Hunter in that joyously ripe boyenberry mode that other flagships like Thomas Kiss and Brokenwood Graveyard do so well. It’s a teensy bit warm, but it’s worth it for the impact of its glossy modern Hunter Valley Shirazness. You don’t see the oak either, which is a boon. I’d like a little more tannins, maybe, but this is such an impressive, glossy but moderate wine that you don’t miss them.

Best drinking: now or in two decades’ time. 18.7/20, 95/100. 14%, $80. Would I buy it? Worth a bottle, although my cellar is full of Shiraz that I’m just not drinking.

Gundog Estate Flintlock Shiraz 2023

Another win. Hilltops fruit here from Roger Clark’s vineyard at Boorowa and the Freeman Vineyard. 16 months in oak as well. Has the cherry almond biscuit Hilltops thing in droves, glossy Gundog red raspberry and red licorice notes through the middle drive this very primary red – it’s juicy, it’s mouth filling. Has a lovely glossiness to it, though. Applaudable, medium-bodied, enjoyable Shiraz of character and low alcohol.

Best drinking: now and for fifteen years easy. 18.5/20, 94/100. 13.5%, $80. Would I buy it? I’d share a bottle

Gundog Estate Hilltops Shiraz No.1 2023

Hilltops fruit for this wine, too. Purple fruit and some of that same crunchy nut bar Hilltops vibe, though this wine feels a bit more contained and less plush. Boysenberry, grilled nuts, still closed up tight but nice purple fruit underneath and well-contained acidity. Enjoyable now and with no shortage of promise.

Best drinking: worth a year or two in the cellar and then drink over a decade no probs. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $36. Would I buy it? Two glasses without even noticing the glass is empty.

Gundog Estate Smoking Barrel Shiraz 2023

Hunter, Hilltops & Canberra fruit for this wine, which is like a NSW Shiraz super group. Again, an enjoyable, open-hearted, medium-bodied red. Has a bit of sausage cooler climate fruit, some brighter purple, a little terracotta dust. You can taste Canberra, Hunter & Hilltops! A bit angular on the finish, but lots of pleasure in this purple wine.

Best drinking: good now, good for a decade. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.2%, $36. Would I buy it? Worth a few glasses.

Gundog Estate Hilltops Riesling 2024

Residual sugar is such a funny thing. When I cracked this Riesling, I thought ‘hello, a little sweetness’, but then when I looked harder, it seemed more like a juicy, medium-bodied wine with a green apple and riper stonefruit fleshiness. The stats tell the story – 5g/L of residual FWIW). Blossoms and juiciness, a little diffuse but affable, this reminds me of Coonawarra Riesling, which is also interesting, with the drinkability and sneaky structure of that most underrated SA Riesling style.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $36. Would I buy it? Worth a glass.

Gundog Estate Hilltops Shiraz No.2 2023

Not unripe, which is a triumph for a 12.5% alcohol modern Australian red. It’s gentle, with pencilly Shiraz with red raspberry fruit and a little dried herbs. Has a peculiar cola/sarsaparilla thing going on and this phenolic dryness too, but also a certain claret-like luncheon wine drinkability, even if the acid is unmissable.

Best drinking: nowish. 17.5/20, 91/100. 12.5%, $36. Would I buy it? A glass. At lunch?

Gundog Indomitus Rutilus 2023

More blending fun! This is Canberra Shiraz and Yarra Pinot Noir, although I had to look long and hard to see the Pinot here – it’s all about black fruit lusciousness. Black olive, coffee, and bitter black fruit, with a palate that vascillates between plushness and bitterness. That savouriness robs this of charm – a little more ripeness might have amped up the drinkability. Again, not a short wine either, hence the decent silver medal.

Best drinking: nowish and for a good five years easy. 17.5/20, 91/100. 13%, $45. Would I buy it? A glass.

Gundog Estate Indomitus Albus Semillon 2023

It’s Hunter Valley Semillon, but not in the usual mode. Wild fermentation, some time in barrel, and a portion that spent half a year on skins – it will have ‘no medal’ at the Hunter Valley Wine Show because of these things. What counts is not the adherence to the norm; it’s how it tastes, and this is definitely intriguing, if not exactly cohesive. Lots of lemon pith, plenty of phenolic grip and some hat and almond flake sort of nuttiness to it. Served blind, you’d struggle to even call this Hunter Semillon – it could be Cortese or another Italian white, especially with the nutty phenolics (although the green apple is less Italianate). Not unattractive wine, all said, and certainly long, but it also isn’t cohesive and without a distinct personality beyond the nuts and phenolics.

Best drinking: nowish, I guess. 17/20, 90/100. 11%, $36. Would I buy it? A glass, maybe.

M Burton Riesling 2023

Wild fermented Canberra Riesling here, with the ferment happening in barrel on full solids like it’s a Chardonnay. Oh boy, is it tight and firm, too. Tight, tangy, with some of those nutty, lanolin phenolic edges. A little brown lime and grapefruit, then sour citrusy acidity and tightness – not a fruity wine in any way. Super long, super interesting, but not even slightly easy wine

Best drinking: later, probably. 17/20, 90/100. 11%, $50. Would I buy it? A glass to ponder over.

Gundog Estate Rosé 2024

Canberra & Hilltops fruit for this wine. Pink/orange bright colours and it tastes juicy too – a ripe, slightly off-dry wine of quite some juicy pink fruit. The candied fruit sweetness is a bit much for me – candied red fruit on the finish is a bit dominant (but again, not strictly sweet). I bet this is super popular at cellar door, though, and not poorly made at all.

Best drinking: now. 16.5/20, 88/100. 13.5%, $30. Would I buy it? Yeah, nah.