From my rough calculations, this M3 Chardonnay has been released earlier this year, perhaps due to the effectively non-existent 2011 vintage wine (a tough vintage in the Hills).

I could be wrong, but for what it’s worth this could really do with a few more – 12 at least – months in bottle to really come together. If you’re a fan, hang tight and scout around for the (much more ready) 2010.

Otherwise, the recipe hasn’t changed – handpicked, whole bunch pressed,  wild fermented in barrel and then kept for an extended period of time on lees. Good, modern winemaking.

It looks backward in the glass too – a very light green straw. Pristine grapefruit and green melon nose, with that fresh-out-of-the-barrel edge. Palate is backwards and razor sharp, all grapefruity, limey acidity and just ripe fruit.

Will it get there? Definitely. The form is good, the lines great. The only other question is if this might be a little too backward. Only time will tell. Well worth a little cellaring regardless.

Drink: 2014-2017
Score: 18/20, 93/100+
Would I buy it? I’d prefer to drink the 2010 now, hold off for another 18 months yet.