‘Drink this when you’re waiting for your Sauternes to come around.’

That’s Aline Baly, from the Baly family (owners of Chateau Coutet) talking about the purpose of this new wine for Chateau Coutet, Opalie.

What sets Opalie apart from the rest of the Coutet range is that it is dry – like d’Yquem’s Y or Rieussec’s R – and seriously dry at that.

Further, Opalie isn’t just an afterthought, it is a statement wine, with as much structure as in Coutet’s more traditional sweet Sauternes, yet obviously addressing the current need in Sauternes to produce more contemporary wines (sweet Sauternes is not all that cool at the moment. Plus it costs a boatload to produce).

Like all of the Coutet offerings, this is an unquestionably impressively constructed wine too, produced in a specially built new cellar and limited to just 4,000 bottles. A 50/50 Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon blend, this is barrel fermented and spends 9 months in 60% new oak.

Perhaps the only challenge with Opalie is that it lacks some of the seduction of sweet Sauternes – driven by phenolics, acidity and quite prominent new oak. Yet that’s missing what is also quite magical here – the beautiful passionfruit and creme brulee character which is so obviously Sauternes, even if this wine was made from botrytis-free grapes. There’s juiciness to the palate too, which is clearly framed by acidity and extract, but with genuine fruit flavour. A wine for the future, yet not without current appeal.

Ultimately, what makes Opalie work is the sense of intrigue – there is something ethereal about that nose, and to see it matched up with a dry palate just seems wonderfully odd. I’m not sure if I love it, but interest is very high indeed. 17.8/20, 92/100+