Topper’s Mountain Barbera 2010 (New England, NSW)
14.9%, Screwcap, $32
Source: Sample
www.toppers.com.au

Is there nothing that Topper’s Mountain can’t do?

While this perhaps isn’t the best wine under the label (I still think that honour falls to the Gewurtz), you can just feel the application and effort that went into it – a wine that clearly wasn’t made with half measures involved.

Mark my words, Topper’s Mountain could well be the Clonakilla-esque ‘umbrella winery’ of the New England, the estate needing only more time/further vine age, before it achieves mainstream success.

This Barbera is only the second under the Topper’s Mountain label (after the 2008) and for such young vines shows a real varietal intensity to it. It’s a riper style of Barbera, with black cherry fruit ripeness and a dog fur/turned earth wildness, yet still carrying no shortage of acidity. There is just a hint of blackberry jamminess, but I don’t think it lacks freshness, just a very savoury profile and minimal oak interference.