Brilliant Clare Riesling for the long haul: Skillogalee Trevarrick Riesling 2012

It’s been a while since I’ve had a Skillogalee Riesling. Not sure why? Good, small wineries slip under the radar sometimes, which makes coming back to them and finding smart wines all that more pleasurable – like discovering that you’re holiday fish ‘n’ chip shop makes even better hamburgers (with the lot,
hold the pineapple) than you remember.

What makes this wine so attractive is the brilliant intensity of flavour – it’s like Clare Riesling condensed, such is the compact power. In fact, the only thing working against this brilliantly acidic (TA 7.03, pH 2.93), blindingly concentrated Riesling is its awkward age – that primary fruit prettiness has dissipated a little and the toast of bottle development hasn’t caught up quite yet.

Still, underneath that neutral nose the palate is a powerhouse of fruit and acidity, the back end carrying that magical grapefruit/blackcurrant acid that guarantees a long and prosperous stay in the cellar.

Deserving of a gold medal on length and concentration alone. Don’t drink it now though – buy some, stick it in the cellar for another 12 months or so.