The best encore of all – Lethbridge’s Dr Nadeson Riesling returns
This wine wasn’t meant to come back.
A few years back the owners of the Barrett vineyard in Portland, Victoria, decided to retire from the grapegrowing business. From what I gather they had they had no one to pass the vineyard on to, so simply let it go, a decision that ultimately effectively retired Lethbridge’s Dr Nadeson Riesling (sourced exclusively from this 30 year old Henty vineyard) in the process.
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Judging by how good this, I’m glad he did.
Lethbridge Dr Nadeson Riesling 2013
It took a little work out whether I liked this or not, which probably means it will be a polarising wine. That’s entirely ok though. What this wine is, however, is one of the more successful of attempts at our own Grosses Gewachs – a special, dryish (not bone dry, this still has 10g/L of residual sugar at least by my guess) Riesling from a very special site.
The key, of course, is balance, which means in this case a contrast between driving, sparkling fresh grapefruit acidity, underlying grapefruit, a dash of sherbet, some early bottle maturation honey and just a hint of ripe mango/peach fruit, all topped off with some yeast funk (hazarding a guess that this spent some time in old wood or at least on lees).
What these alternating layers of fruit/acid make for is a wine that dips and turns and changes – a living, breathing, utterly human wine of sweetness, acid, extraordinary length and the odd flavour that seems a bit wrong, ultimately presenting you with a drink that you want to go back to. Technically it’s not flawless, but charisma-wise it’s hard not really dig a wine like this, and I think it would hold it’s own, intensity-wise, with many a German GG equivalent.
Details: 11%, Screwcap, $30
Tasted: March 2015, Sample
Best drinking: 2015-2023
Score: 18.5/20, 94/100
Would I buy it? I’d be tempted. Would be great to see this again in 3 years time..,
Buy online: Lethbridge website
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