Easing back in with three bold Balgownie Shiraz
Blend of Heathcote and Bendigo fruit with a dash of Viognier.
Lovely mix of savoury dark purple fruits, powdery chocolate oak, a little meaty sausage spiciness and soft, fine tannins. Only medium bodied, but balances out nicely, if perhaps a little confected. Only needs a little more concentration to nudge it up with the Centre Block though. Drink: 2015-2023. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 14.5% alc. $25.
Balgownie Estate Centre Block Shiraz 2013
A newish release off a block planted in 1969. Hand picked and fermented in small vats. 30% new oak for 18 months.
Black fruit and lots of concentration -it’s a really big black wine, the oak folding into the black fruit and oak. Superb concentration and impact, if just a little scorched around the edges. Black ink and cocoa powder in a style that is perhaps a little too boozy and warm but has no shortage of concentration. Much to grab hold of. Drink: 2015-2025. 17.7/20, 92/100. 15% alc. $35
Balgownie Estate Shiraz 2012
Purple maroon. Squishy berries, a little haunch and some deep blackness. Seriously rich and dense nose. Powerful palate takes that meaty, purple berry fruit, a streak of vanilla oak and then soft, lingering tannins. Love the purple berry pepper, the warmth the only full stop. Finishes savoury, long and black fruited – a genuinely delicious wine and everything in its right place. Perhaps a little simple is my only niggle. Sure to get better in time though. Drink:2016-2030. 18.2/20, 93/100. 14.5% alc. $45
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4 Comments
Hello Andrew,
You have commented on the alc warmth in both the Centre Block and Estate shiraz which are 2013 and 2012 respectively.
Yet the 2012 Cabernet you reviewed several months ago from the same vineyard, while at similar alc levels received no mention by you of alc warmth.
I find this interesting. What element of the Cabernet gives it the ability to carry the alc so, what appears, effortlessly?
Thanks
Colin r
It's amazing how some wines carry their alcohol better than others. I had a 15% odd 2006 Jim Barry Armagh the other day that didn't look warm, while the 05 with nearly identical alcohol looked hot. It very much comes down to a wine by wine scenario methinks, though firm tannin can help hide bigger alcohol too (which helped the Cabernet).
Dear Readers, I have every confidence that Andrew can reliably detect “alcohol heat” when present. What is spurious is a belief that the printed alc % on a label is accurate ! Check out the number on every chardonnay and pinot noir wine over the last few vintages with a Hoddles Creek label. Believe it … or NOT.
I wouldn’t doubt it Ray.
I wrote an essay on alcohol levels va what’s stated on the label a year or so back. Worth a revisit to know what winemakers can or can’t get away with: http://ozwinereview.wpcomstaging.com/2014/11/a-little-win-for-exploration-of-alcohol.html