Easing back in with three bold Balgownie Shiraz

October 9, 2015

I managed to sleep all the way through overnight, gladly not waking up at 5am again. Take that jet lag!

Tonight I’m celebrating with a beer and three Shiraz from Bendigo’s Balgownie,

I’ve enjoyed the more recent Balgownie releases, and Tony Winspear is the sort of no-bullshit winemaker that I like to hear from.

Balgownie Estate Black Label Shiraz 2013
Blend of Heathcote and Bendigo fruit with a dash of Viognier.
Lovely mix of savoury dark purple fruits, powdery chocolate oak, a little meaty sausage spiciness and soft, fine tannins. Only medium bodied, but balances out nicely, if perhaps a little confected. Only needs a little more concentration to nudge it up with the Centre Block though. Drink: 2015-2023. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 14.5% alc. $25.

Balgownie Estate Centre Block Shiraz 2013
A newish release off a block planted in 1969. Hand picked and fermented in small vats. 30% new oak for 18 months.
Black fruit and lots of concentration -it’s a really big black wine, the oak folding into the black fruit and oak. Superb concentration and impact, if just a little scorched around the edges. Black ink and cocoa powder in a style that is perhaps a little too boozy and warm but has no shortage of concentration. Much to grab hold of. Drink: 2015-2025. 17.7/20, 92/100. 15% alc. $35

Balgownie Estate Shiraz 2012
Purple maroon. Squishy berries, a little haunch and some deep blackness. Seriously rich and dense nose. Powerful palate takes that meaty, purple berry fruit, a streak of vanilla oak and then soft, lingering tannins. Love the purple berry pepper, the warmth the only full stop. Finishes savoury, long and black fruited – a genuinely delicious wine and everything in its right place. Perhaps a little simple is my only niggle. Sure to get better in time though. Drink:2016-2030. 18.2/20, 93/100. 14.5% alc. $45

2012, 2013, Bendigo, Heathcote, Shiraz, Shiraz Viognier

Andrew Graham was once voted the 23rd most trusted wine critic on the planet. A WCA Journalism Young Gun now old hack with 25yrs as a buyer, judge, journalist, marketer and too much more.

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4 responses to “Easing back in with three bold Balgownie Shiraz”

Anonymous

October 10, 2015 at 10:27 pm

Hello Andrew,
You have commented on the alc warmth in both the Centre Block and Estate shiraz which are 2013 and 2012 respectively.
Yet the 2012 Cabernet you reviewed several months ago from the same vineyard, while at similar alc levels received no mention by you of alc warmth.
I find this interesting. What element of the Cabernet gives it the ability to carry the alc so, what appears, effortlessly?

Thanks

Colin r

Reply
1. ozwinereview
  
  October 10, 2015 at 10:46 pm
  
  It's amazing how some wines carry their alcohol better than others. I had a 15% odd 2006 Jim Barry Armagh the other day that didn't look warm, while the 05 with nearly identical alcohol looked hot. It very much comes down to a wine by wine scenario methinks, though firm tannin can help hide bigger alcohol too (which helped the Cabernet).
  
  Reply
Ray

May 2, 2016 at 12:22 am

Dear Readers, I have every confidence that Andrew can reliably detect “alcohol heat” when present. What is spurious is a belief that the printed alc % on a label is accurate ! Check out the number on every chardonnay and pinot noir wine over the last few vintages with a Hoddles Creek label. Believe it … or NOT.

Reply
1. Andrew Graham
  
  May 2, 2016 at 8:35 am
  
  I wouldn’t doubt it Ray.
  
  I wrote an essay on alcohol levels va what’s stated on the label a year or so back. Worth a revisit to know what winemakers can or can’t get away with: http://ozwinereview.wpcomstaging.com/2014/11/a-little-win-for-exploration-of-alcohol.html
  
  Reply