There a few wines that, when they land at Graham HQ, skip any sort of ‘tasting’ queue and go straight to the ‘drinking’ department. This Tolpuddle Chardonnay 2016 is such a beast.

Again, the beauty of this Tasmanian Chardonnay is the perfect detail. A precision and delicacy that, from first whiff, pronounces this as great.

Interestingly, I think this is a riper vintage for the Tolpuddle with just a little more mid-palate generosity. That doesn’t hurt, as the acid was very firm in some early editions. Here it just about right.

It might be odd to say so, but you can smell how much this is still driven by acidity. There’s whipped butter and a hint of white peaches on the nose, the palate following suit with delicacy and elegance. There’s impact, but it’s meant to be subtle, gentle. Beautiful.

Previously I’ve always thought as this as Chablis-inspired. But this year it’s more about grapefruit and just-ripe peaches, the flavour up a notch, the style feeling less like ripe sparkling base and more about varietal character.

The end result is, yet again, an utterly delicious Australian Chardonnay. A wine that, quality-wise, goes easily toe-to-toe with 1er Cru Burgundy. Just half the price.

Best drinking: Now but will keep on maturing for years yet. 18.7/20, 95/100. 13%, $70. Would I buy it? Yes.