Massolino Vigna Rionda Barolo 2013
On Monday I was banging on about the beauty of the ‘standard’ Massolino Barolo. Here is its older, more famous, and utterly delicious brother.
The Vigna Rionda vineyard is considered to be the premier plot in Serralunga d’Alba – the Musigny of Serralunga, if we want to dip into the Burgundy analogy again – and Massolino has the greatest holdings (3.5ha with 2ha planted to Nebbiolo). Such is the structure, it’s kept back in until six years of age with extended ageing in large botte. That means technically it’s a riserva, but don’t let that muddy things.
What a sensational wine. Simple as that.
Pure and beautiful and lively, with truffles and cherries aplenty. But it’s dense and tannic too, the middle thick with blue fruit density. Though it dances around with natural acidity through the finish too. Ahh. What sets this apart is something outre in the red fruit. A sense that there is more here than just ripe fruit and tannins. A hint of magic. And then it finishes with these mouth-coating tannins that can’t be missed, with no alcohol intrusion, no oak butting in. It’s just long, fine, and proper tannic.
Lots of great, expensive wines aren’t actually much fun to drink. But this is a joy to sip and a cerebral wine delight.
Best drinking: Now to twenty years plus. 19/20, 96/100. 14%, $320ish. Would I buy it? Let’s be real, I can’t afford this. Please buy me some.
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4 Comments
Hi Andrew,
Nice to see some Italian Nebb coming your way.
As a recent convert to Italian Nebbiolo I find the elevated complexity the most enjoyable aspect. Another thing I find intriguing (as you suggest) is just how well the abv is handled…..really interesting.
But, boy oh boy they are expensive when landed in Australia!
$100 seems to be the almost normal retail ……wow!
Regards
Colin
The dollars are mindblowing, but in the context of great Burgundy, Bordeaux, top Cali Cabs, icon Barossan reds et al they’re relatively well priced. Still, when you’re in Italy and the same wine is €100 it grates…
Sure makes some of the great Australian wines like the Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier look like superb value in the global context.
Massively so. I think Australian Chardonnay is the variety where I see the most amazing value. $300 Burgundy regularly looks on par with $70 Chardonnay.
Also Kiwi Pinot for that matter. Top Central Otago and Martinborough Pinot for $80AUD also kills Burgundy.