Baileys of Glenrowan Organic Shiraz 2016

The Baileys of Glenrowan vineyard is a sleeping giant. A 144ha, certified organic vineyard with vines over a century old.

That’s a large organic plot.

At one stage it was Treasury’s largest certified organic vineyard. Yet that didn’t stop the constant talk of when Baileys would be sold. For years, it was another ‘asset’ to be offloaded…

Then, finally, it happened, but with the right result, as the Casella family stepped in with a promise to give this heritage brand more of the love it deserves (much like the Peter Lehmann story).

We’re now 18 months into the Casella-backed Baileys era, so probably too early for significant changes. But the wines are good. They’re real, they’re regional, and they’re anything but overdone. The place oozes with history and potential, and with fellow Dookie alumni Paul Dahlenburg (also one half of Eldorado Road) still driving things forward, it’s all coming up Milhouse.

This red is just as clever. It’s deep and dark and ripe in a northern Victorian mode, But it’s not heavy, not cooked, not raisined. Just inky black. Licoricey and dark berried. Full, but moderate too. There’s real satisfaction in the dense but not style here. And at a great price too. Best drinking: Now to ten years plus. 17.7/20, 92/100. 13.5%, $27. Would I buy it? Worth sharing a bottle.