Bendigo via St Emilion? Nah. This Balgownie Estate Merlot Cabernet Franc 2018 is a very Aussie big red.

Plenty of plums, a dash of eucalypt, the palate chunky, a bit minty, the palate profile turned up to ripe speed, with chunky, slightly too-drying tannins. 15 months in barrel, but doesn’t show the oak. But tannins? Yeah, it’s got a few.

Red wine with heart, unquestionably, even if it’s not at sexy as the straight Balgownie Cabernet or Shiraz. The plus sign is important too – don’t be afraid to hold on to some.

Balgownie Estate Merlot Cabernet Franc 2018. Best drinking: good now, better in two or three years, and alive still in twenty, no probs. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 14%, $45. Balgownie website. Would I buy it? I’d prefer this glorious Cabernet instead.