Reviewing young Hunter Valley Semillon built in the ‘traditional’ style (low alcohol, high acid, usually bottled with plenty of SO2) is typically hard work. Green apples, and teeth-cleaning acidity. But the best wines, typically, are delicious from early on. And this Gundog Estate The Chase Semillon 2021 is very fine.

It’s archetypal Hunter Sem from someone (hi Matt Burton) who knows how to make classic Hunter Semillon. The numbers alone give a nod to the frame – pH 3.09, TA 7.1g/L, 10.5% – and yet it doesn’t seem hard, with excellent green apple fruit intensity the focal point from the get-go. Acidity is notable, all natural, and well framed. It all feels vital, right, long, good, even if the best years are clearly something in the future. Hard to go wrong with this in your cellar.

Gundog Estate The Chase Semillon 2021. Best drinking: sure, I thought it was drinkable now, but really you shouldn’t open this for at least four more years. Then drink for the next twenty or more. 18.5/20, 94/100+. Gundog Estate website. Would I buy it? Cheap for the quality. In other words, it is a buy from me.