Look at that alcohol. Tricky Yarra vintage, and looks like they went early with the pick. Light, mulchy and autumnal Yarra Pinot, not without vivacity but also a little bitter, the small amount of whole bunches making an impact. There is a certain class and sophistication here, but just a bit bony.

Best drinking: from now. Might well fill out in 1-2 years. 17/20, 90/100. 12.8%, $38. Boat O’Craigo website. Would I buy it? A glass.