It always feels like you’re stepping back in time with these Zema reds, harking back to the early noughties in winemaking style. That’s not necessarily a bad thing mind you, but this Zema Estate Family Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 is one wine where a ‘less is more’ modernity might be appealing. Interesting in the context of the Taylors I was banging on about yesterday too – this just misses the generosity.

Lots of tannic, minty, long and rather unyielding flavour. Not ready; but not unattractive. Less mint wouldn’t go astray, and the tannins look astringent too, oak on top, the alcohol giving a warm punch to finish too. Less would be more. Still, it’s a very substantial wine, that’s for sure, and it will live for yonks. At five years of age, it is barely settling into its skin, and on length alone, it’s a silver medal wine. But the balance isn’t there for a gold medal, and it should be a gold medal Coonawarra red.

Zema Estate Family Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2016. 17.5/20, 91/100+. 14.5%, $49.99. Zema website. Would I buy it? A glass.