I was banging on yesterday about a pack of inexpensive Aldi exclusive wines that looked great for the dollars. This El Toro Macho Reserva 2016 is one that rose above the pack.

A blend of Bobal, Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon & Garnacha from Valencia. It sounds foolish to say, but this feels so Spanish. The earthen, caramel and brick dust palate is lifted up by oak sweetness on a palate that feels savoury, dusty, substantial, chewy and longish. There’s a real inexpensive Rioja Crianza vibe to this, even though Bobal is the hero. It’s not about super definition or intensity, but this is a hit for affordable drinking with some charisma.

Best drinking: nowish, will probably go for a few more years yet. 17/20, 90/100. 13%, $8.99. Would I buy it? A glass.